Top 10 Fruit Trees Best for Clay Soil
Orchardists recommend growing fruit trees in well-draining, rich, slightly acidic soil. However, there are plenty of backyard gardeners and fruit enthusiasts whose property consists of clayey soil, successfully growing productive fruit trees. Many trees you’ll find for sale are grafted, which allows them to tolerate most soil types, ward off common diseases, and thrive under less-than-ideal conditions. Otherwise, seek out cultivars that indicate tolerance to soggy soil, “wet feet,” compaction, and flooding if you experience these conditions in your area.
A benefit of growing in heavy, clay soil is when conditions are dry, water maintains longer, reducing the need for watering.
10 Best Fruit Trees for Clay Soil
- Apple trees
- Pear trees
- Plum trees
- Cherry trees
- Persimmon trees
- Fig trees
- Mulberry trees
- Quince trees
- Peach and nectarine trees
- Apricot trees
Apple Trees
The most significant risk when growing apple trees in clay soil is root and crown rot, so prepare the soil by adding organic matter, which should have 2 to 5% organic content mixed in. This ratio allows for proper water retention and healthy air pockets that roots require to receive oxygen underground.
Plant more than one for proper pollination. Try ‘Fuji’ and ‘Granny Smith’ together for a sweet and crunchy mix. Multi-grafted trees have branches from different varieties grafted onto a single rootstock. “Growing apples in the home garden,” from the University of Minnesota is a great resource if you are new to caring for apple trees.
The M-111 rootstock is used globally for its tolerance of all soil types and disease resistance. Home growers may prefer M-7, a dwarf type suitable for smaller spaces. Keep the graft line exposed at least two to three inches above the soil surface. Apple trees are typically grown in USDA zones 3 to 8 since most need chill hours to produce fruit but some heat tolerant varieties can grow in zone 9.
Pear Trees
If failures from growing in clay soil have you feeling defeated, add a pear tree to the mix to build your confidence. Pears tolerate clay soil as their roots prefer more water retention, which clay soils do.
Pears are a cousin of the apple, so two varieties are needed for proper pollination. However, they are much more carefree and not bothered much by soil type, disease, or pests. Some varieties are suited for growing Zone 3, but most will thrive in Zone 4 and above, with late summer and fall harvests.
Plum Trees
If you adjust your clay soil to improve drainage, plum trees won’t mind the heavier nature. Top dress with compost, mulched leaves, and broadfork before planting to loosen up the soil. Like pears, they prefer water retention during peak summer months but won’t appreciate having “wet feet.” Prune off suckers immediately upon noticing them.
Look for varieties grafted onto rootstock St. Julian A for the best tolerance to clay soil and remaining semi-dwarfed. They’ll perform best where winters are mild; zones 6 to 10 are best but some plum varieties can survive down to zone 4. Established plants are drought-tolerant.
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Cherry Trees
With proper care, cherry trees can produce 50 pounds of fruit per harvest season for many years. Most cherry trees are grafted to increase their cold and poor soil tolerance. ‘Bing’ will perform well in zones 5 to 8 with eight hours of sunlight daily. Depending on the variety that range can stretch down to zone 4 or up to zone 9.
Use the mound planting method by digging a hole that is only as deep as the pot your plant arrived in but much wider. Place the plant into the hole after scoring the edges of the “bowl” to give the roots a place to infiltrate the surrounding soil and avoid them binding up naturally. Surround the plant with native soil, then create the mound with organic matter and amended soil.
This planting method encourages the roots to venture out into the native clay soil while still providing them with the organic matter they need. While it may seem like filling the hole with soft, organic matter is a good idea, this creates a perfect environment for roots to become “rootbound” within the hole.
Pro tip: Put a tarp or large piece of cardboard alongside the hole you’re digging and shovel the soil onto it to make filling the hole easier later.
Persimmon Trees
Persimmon trees are vibrant, eye-catching, and versatile, transforming gardens across the globe into magical outdoor spaces while providing sweet, nutritious fruits. The contrast of the gray bark, bright orangish-yellow to red fruits, and deep-green, leathery foliage offers beautiful contrast.
American persimmons can reach 60 feet tall at maturity and thrive across Zones 4 to 9 and soil types. Get your pH between 6.0 and 6.5, and work to improve soil drainage before planting a persimmon tree, and they won’t mind the clay structure. They’re highly adaptable with a little TLC, including slow-release general fertilizer and full sun.
Enjoy the fruits of your labor in late fall. Protect persimmon trees in cooler regions, especially Asian varieties, as they are sensitive to extreme conditions. Use frost blanket to cover trees in the winter. Frost blankets work best over a structure that keeps the fabric from resting against the tree.
Fig Trees
Figs are all the rage right now. Luckily, they thrive in raised beds, grow bags, and containers, so you don’t have to miss out on this delicious trend because you have clayey soil. Grow ‘Chicago Hardy’ in growing Zones 5+ as their roots can tolerate temperatures of -20°F (28.9°C). All above-ground plant parts should be securely covered before winter to ensure survival in zones 6 and below. Hardy fig varieties can survive uncovered in zones 7 to 11.
Add fresh figs to fall salads, eat dried figs as a snack, or add them to a phyllo dough shell with goat cheese, bacon, and fresh herbs as a delicious appetizer at your next gathering.
Fun fact: Most fig varieties require pollination by a tiny fig wasp. The female wasp crawls inside to lay eggs and, in the process, loses her antennae and wings, sacrificing her life to continue her species.
Mulberry Trees
Mulberries are known to thrive in conditions mostly intolerable by most fruit trees, making them a popular fruit tree among growers with sandy, rocky, and even salty soil; they’re not picky! Generously prune trees each season for the highest production.
While you can grow mulberry trees from seed or cuttings, young trees from your local nursery will transplant easily in the spring. The smaller the tree, the lower the risk of transplant shock. Protect the roots and crown before winter by mulching around the trunk. To harvest, gently shake the tree like an olive tree and allow fruits to fall onto a blanket or tarp below.
Protect trees from pest damage with insect netting. Mulberry are well adapted for USDA zones 4-8 with everbearing varieties hardy from zones 5-9.
Quince Trees
Quince trees prefer loamy soil, so preparing clay soil in advance is critical to their success. Add compost, cow manure, or pea moss and work it into your existing soil. Several rounds of cover crops will make a drastic difference in soil structure. Transplant new trees when they’re dormant between November and March in most growing zones. Grow ‘Leskovacka’ in Zones 5b to 8b. Most quince varieties are hardy in USDA zones 4-9.
The quince resembles a pear with some apple-like qualities, and some lemon-like qualities. Confusing, right? Bake tart quinces into pies, pickle them, or use them in jams and chutneys. They’re high in antioxidants, which significantly reduce inflammation and may prevent chronic diseases.
Peach and Nectarine Trees
Like cherry trees, peach and nectarine trees will appreciate a mound to keep their roots from sitting in a pool of water. Encouraging their roots to venture outside your planting hole will create a more robust, resilient plant. After planting them in a shallow hole, mound them with organic matter and add amendments as a top dress. Plant them in the spring in the most elevated area of your property for best results.
A significant risk for peach and nectarine trees is late spring frosts that kill the first blooms and pests attracted to their sweet fragrance and delicious flesh. Prune them to have an open canopy to allow healthy airflow and sun penetration. While generally hardy in zones 5 to 8, some peaches and nectarines can tolerate zone 4; for warmer zones, look for trees grafted onto plum rootstock.
Related: How to Test Soil pH Before Planting and Why You Should
Apricot Trees
Add a layer of decomposing sticks and branches to the bottom of your hole and wet them before backfilling with native soil. The roughage will improve drainage in your young tree’s early life stages. Since getting acclimated in clay soil takes more effort, only add amendments and organic matter once established.
Select ‘Harcot’ or ‘Goldrich’ in cold regions and ‘Moorpark’ for a late December harvest in the warm areas. Apricot trees are generally hardy in zones 4 to 9, but some hardy varieties survive down to zone 2. Over-fertilization may cause a reduction in fruiting. Add dried apricots to homemade trail mix or snack on them alone for a fat-free boost in vitamins A and C, potassium, and antioxidants.
Note: Most apricot trees are biennial fruiting, meaning they only produce a good fruit crop every other year.
FAQs
How do I improve clay soil for planting fruit trees?
Soil test to determine what nutrients are lacking or in abundance and learn more about your soil organic matter levels. Simply put, clay soil particles are small and bind together tightly. Organic matter offers various sizes of particles, helping to break up compaction, produce air pockets, and improve tilth.
Plant oil-seed and daikon radishes in your future fruit tree plot. Their deep roots break up compaction a foot down and, as they break down, create large open holes where water, air, and organic matter can settle. Soil improvement takes time, but it’s possible with hard work and diligence. Cover your soil in the off-season with cover crops and leaf mulch. Both will help avoid soil erosion and add fertility as they break down.
What are some common issues when growing trees in clay soil?
Poor drainage, compaction, water run-off, inefficient nutrient uptake, and frost-heaving are common issues when growing trees in clay soil. While it’s more challenging, growers can successfully grow fruit trees in clay soil with proper preparation and techniques.
How do you prepare clay soil for planting fruit trees?
To prepare the soil, you’ll want to combat each of the common issues mentioned above.
- For poor drainage: Incorporate organic matter like mulched leaves, compost, aged manure, or grit into the soil. The larger particles break up the compaction of the clay, allowing proper air and moisture retention and healthy root development and growth. The soil structure will improve over time with regular organic matter amendments.
- For compaction: Use a digging or broad fork to break up the soil. By opening it up, you’ll provide aeration, allow amendments to be mixed in efficiently, and improve drainage. You can also get these results by cover cropping with deep-rooted radishes, sunflowers, ryegrass, and cereal rye.
- To avoid water run-off: Add mulch around the drip line of each tree, avoiding the innermost area near the root to avoid rot. Mulching will help with water retention, keep the soil in place, and suppress weeds. As the mulch breaks down, it becomes food for worms and other beneficial insects and adds nutrients to the soil.
- To ensure proper nutrient uptake: Clay makes it more difficult for roots to uptake nutrients. To assist them with this process, break up compaction so the roots can breathe and access the necessary nutrients.
- To prevent frost-heaving: Heavy clay soils heave more than sandy soils because of the moisture present. They expand and contract as temperatures fluctuate, causing heaves and breaks, potentially damaging root systems and causing long-term adverse effects. Mulch helps to prevent heaving by preventing frost penetration of the soil.
Related: Beginners Guide to Soil Media Amendments and Fertility
How often should I water fruit trees in clay soil?
In clay soils, use a slow, deep watering method so the water absorbs rather than pooling above the soil surface and rolling off.
- Young trees: As young trees establish their roots, water them twice a week for several months while they get settled in. Again, do it slowly so the water reaches the entire root system, which may go down more than a foot.
- Established trees: As trees mature, the primary roots directly underneath the trunk don’t take in much water; their job is to anchor the tree. The younger feeder roots venture out for food and water, which may span several feet from the canopy. Knowing this will help direct the water to the right area as your orchard grows. Instead of watering near the trunk, deep water a few feet out where the feeder roots are. Water further out each season to encourage these young roots to stretch out, helping to anchor the tree more each year.
Pro tip: Invest in a simple soil moisture gauge and get a baseline of your moisture levels before planting your orchard. Record the results each time you measure until you become familiar with what levels call for a watering session.
Can you grow citrus trees in clay soil?
Growing citrus in clay will be more challenging, but it’s doable. Citrus trees are tropical, so they thrive in warm climates in southern regions. However, warm areas in Georgia, Texas, Virginia, and Colorado with sticky, thick, clay soil may struggle to successfully grow citrus due to poor drainage, rocks, and small particles blocking air and nutrients from root uptake. Follow the steps outlined above to prepare your soil and get the desired results.
Do peach trees like clay soil?
No, peach trees prefer well-draining soil. However, you can successfully grow peach trees in a mound to help with drainage and to avoid drowning the trees when heavy rains occur.
Before planting, assess your property's layout and elevation change, pinpoint the highest point, and select this area for your stone fruit trees. While it still might be heavy clay, the drainage will be better than the lower parts of the land. If you’re unsure if the spot is suitable, perform a percolation test.
- Dig a hole and fill it halfway with water
- Set your timer for two hour
- Go back and check on the water level
Avoid using this area if all the water hasn’t drained after the allotted time.
Written by Jenna Rich of Partners’ Gardens LLC
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